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维也纳--空气里也弥漫着音符
发表时间:2013-08-22  浏览数:18035  我要评论(5)

    维也纳是一座用音乐装饰起来的都市,甚至夸张一点说,连空气里也弥漫着音乐,跳荡着音符。

    有人说,奥地利的地形宛如一把横置的小提琴,而维也纳则在其中奏响华美乐章。,8世纪以来,这里哺育了莫扎特、舒伯特、海顿、施特劳斯等学世闻名的音乐大师,贝多芬曾长期在此地生活并从事音乐创作。他们都在这“音乐之都”度过人生最重要的音乐生涯,谱写了许多版美而经典的乐章。如海顿的《皇帝四重奏·莫扎特的《费加罗的婚礼》, 贝多芬的《命运交响曲》、《田园交响曲》、《月光奏鸣曲》、《英雄交响曲》舒伯特的《天鹅之歌》. 约翰·施特劳斯的《蓝色的缂踯等著名乐曲均诞主巨专此。至今,维也纳一些重要8博物馆、音乐厅里,还陈列着他们的部分乐谱和手迹。在维也纳,音乐家坫!称无冕之王,随处可见他们的铜像或大理石像。国家歌剧院、音乐家协会大厦:(金色大厅)等著名演出场所,都是为这些音乐大师和未来的大师准备的舞台。许多街道、公园、礼堂、剧院、会议大厅等,都以音乐家的名字命名。就连王宫花园d9草坪上,也用鲜花组成了一个巨大的音乐符号作为装饰。
    虽然,探访维也纳的时间已经久远,印象也渐次淡薄。但我记得很清楚的是,在维也纳城市公园里,曾在“圆舞曲之王”约翰·施特劳斯的金色雕像前照了相。
    据介绍,这座建于公元1862年的公园,园林风格是英国式的,园中的休养沙龙稍后建成,其风楮则是意大利文艺复兴式的,主要用于举办音乐会。而在休养沙龙B附近便有我专门拍照留念的约翰·施特劳斯的纪念碑。一座青铜铸成的金色跚象,展现施特劳斯拉着小提琴的优雅姿势,在雕像的头顶,是用大理石砌成的拱形建筑物,好像是人们为了迎接这位圆舞曲之王凯旋的凯旌门。这一方面说明,约翰·施特劳斯杰出的音乐成就;另一方面,也展露维也纳人贵i榭鹋涫乐家的心声。

    这个与其父老约翰·施特劳斯同行并且同名的音乐家,一生创作了400多首圆舞曲及进行曲等。其代表作有《蓝色的多瑙河》、《春之声》、《维也纳森林序曲》、《皇帝圆舞曲》、《骓也纳的年轻人》、《奥地利进行曲》以及轻歌剧《蝙蝠》、《吉卜密男爵》等。出生在维也纳的小约翰·施特劳阱也许受到蓝色多瑙河的滋润,其创作的《蓝色多瑙河》舞曲优,高潮送硅,向来是维也纳新年音乐会保留节目之一。
    在维也纳期卜j可,我还有幸到金色大厅听了一场音乐会,依稀记得有约翰·施特劳斯的《蓝色多瑙河姒及中国民歌g茉莉花》。只是时光如流,一晃十几年过去,曲目是否准确,真的不敢保证。然而,当时那场音乐会给人的愉悦以及金色大厅装潢的气派,至今还留有印象。
    维也纳是座典雅优美、古色古香的都城,坐落在阿尔卑斯山北躇一个风景如画的小盆地里,波光粼粼的多瑙河穿过市区。它既是一座城市,又是一个省份,人口占奥地利的五分之一,而土地面积却只占全国领土的o.S%。
    与此同时,它又是除纽约和日内瓦外的第三个联合国城市,1979年建成的奥地利国际中心又称“联合国城”, 气势雄伟,是许多联合国机构的所在地。自古以来,维也纳还是连结东西欧的交通枢纽,以及来往于波罗的海和亚得里亚海之间的重要通道。因此,被人称之为“欧洲心脏之心脏”也理所应当。
    为什么维也纳人对音乐和艺术家如此着迷和推崇?我一直也在寻求答案。
    也许,是风光如画,同时又经济发达,文化传统深厚,各色人等络绎不绝,促使维也纳成为欧洲最古老和最重要的文化、艺术和旅游城市之一。它的音乐力基是如此深人人们的灵魂深处,已经成为日常生活必不可少的元素。
    在短暂的游览中,我看到,即使在绿草如菌的公园里,也有年轻人带着小提琴等乐器在其间操练。还有上了岁数的乐师,在铺着鹅卵石的街道旁拉琴卖艺,旁边放啬一个高头的帽子,有过往的行人往里放钢蹦儿和零钞。
    值得一提的是,维也纳乃至奥地利,还把音乐家的价值推到极致。维也纳-些旅游景点,有贝多芬、施特劳斯、莫扎特等音乐家的纪念品在出售,包括他们头像的巧克力、工艺品和CD唱片;在奥地利的另一名萨尔茨堡,至少辟有两个莫扎特的纪念馆。其中一个是莫扎特出生之地,就在老城粮食胡同九号,是一幢典型的萨尔茨堡民居。另一个是马克特广场八号,公元1773年秋,17岁的莫扎特迁居于此,并在这所房子里创作了许多砦名的交响乐、小夜曲、钢琴和小提琴奏鸣曲及多部歌剧。第二次世界大战期间故居受到严重损坏,20世纪90年代按原样重修。在这两处故居,都有莫扎恃生前用过的乐器和谱写的曲谱、手稿等;同样可以买到有莫扎特头像的巧克力和音乐唱片。记得我们那次是在他出生的敌居参观,走在这些具有历史感的老宅子里,观赏着纪念馆里的物品,我的思绪也随之飘荡。
    正因如此,也才会有那么多的音乐崇拜者、游客会为之痴迷,不远千里万里,愿意花贺咐间金钱,前来造访音乐之都,流连而忘返,向这些音乐大师致敬。

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