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意外的邂逅:阳明书屋,林语堂故居
发表时间:2013-07-02  浏览数:1156  我要评论(8)

    去阳明山并不在计划之中,只是那天看完桂纶镁的<第36个故事)后,被滞滞一车子的海芋所诱惑,遂决定前去阳明山竹子湖看看那片白色的花海,感受她的雍容与典雅。
    海芋有个优美的正式名称叫做“马蹄莲“, 这是因为它的苞片盛开时有如倒立的马路,而植株又如同莲花般生长在水中。它原产于南非的泥沼地,早期被当做野草并拿来喂措,当地人称之为猪草,所幸后来被引入欧洲栽培,才得以摇身一变而成为今日的世界名花。
    搭乘捷运到达北段站,然后转公共汽车230可以到半山处的停车场,下车后再步行15分钟左右,就进入阳明山国家风景区。


阳明书屋

    阳明山最大也最有名气的,莫过于阳明书屋。找到阳明书屋的时候,才明白原来此处大有来头,是蒋介石在台湾的15座行馆之一。
    阳明书屋建于1969年-1970年,是蒋介石生前盖的最后一座行馆,原名中兴宾馆,作夏季避暑和接待外宾之用。1998年6月才正式对公众开放,并改为现在的名称。它包括主建筑和周围的花园森林,一共占地15公顷,背倚七星山,前跳台北盆地,左右分别是纱帽山和大屯山,外侧还有观音山、淡水河和基隆港。阳明书屋背山面水,视野开阔,又掩映在群山绿树中,地理位舌非常好。
    进了门,就是一片宽阔的三角地带,据说是直升机的停机坪,用于战时撖退和外出就医,不过一次也没用过,因为蒋介石病逝前的时光都是在台北市内的士林官邸中度过的。沿着小路往里走,一路上并没有高高耸起的路灯,用于夜间照明的只是路边低矮的防空灯,路两边种的是满满的竹林,据说这样可以增加隐蔽性。
    主楼是一栎二层的茶绿色中式建筑,掩映在苍郁高大的树木间,不显眼的高度和外观的保护色使它显得比较隐蔽。
    一楼大厅完全是中国园林的设计。左右及中央皆有长廊,廊上悬挂传统宫灯,大门上龙形门环,天花板上的“寿”宇图案,——营造出古意。中央长廊分开两个庭园,桂花树散发扑鼻清香,取“富贵(桂)临门”之意。
    二楼是蒋宋夫妇的卧室。宋美龄卧室居于东侧,采光和通风俱佳。室内悫华气派,单人床居于中央,卧室连着画室。蒋介石的卧室位于其旁,略显昏暗,中央放一双人大床,床头接续两张座椅。
    蒋宋二人的卧室内各有一卫生间,风格迥异。宋的卫生间,墙砖为粉红色瓷砖,浴缸、坐便器也都是红色,梳妆台镇嵌金边,玻璃镜子裁成桃心状,完全是西式风格。据说材科都从美国空运而来。而一旁蒋的卫生卜B1, 简单多了。
    坊间流传阳明书屋的山势地形不利于居住于此的蒋介石,原因有二“蒋是五星上将,但坐南朝北的阳明书屋却面对着七星山,七星克五星;另外,与阳明书屋正对的淡水河和基隆河,形似弯弓射箭,弓箭所指,正是阳明书屋。
    不论何种揣测,阳明书屋建成后,蒋介石在此所住时间不长并祸事不断,五六年后,撒手人寰。    在路经阳明山仰德大道的一个岔路口时,蓦然间发现一个不太起眼的林语堂故居的提示路标,于是,我临时决定改变参观路线,不去看那娇弱不堪的海芋了,去拜谒这位神秘而又多才的幽默大师。
    有一句广为流传的话:“世界大同的理想生活,就是住在英国的乡村,屋子里安装善美国的水电煤气等管子,有一个中国厨子,要个日本太太,再找个法国情人。" 发表此说的就是作家林语堂。
    林语堂故居的整体格局是中式的四合院架构,同时又巧妙融入西班牙的雕梁画栋装饰,颇有蔚蓝色的地中海式风情。而令人难以置信的是,这些匠心独具的“谋篇布局”竟都是由学贯中西的林语堂亲自铺陈设计的。正所谓,屋如其人。
    很多人不知道,林语堂不仅是文学家、旎游家、语言学家,他还发明了不少东西,像世界上第一部中文打字机、会挤出牙音的牙刷等等,都可以在故居看到,让人了解他绝不是个学究型的知识分子。为了制造中文打字机,林语堂在20世纪40年代投入所有积蓄,'并亲自设计出检字分类方法,据说那就是后来中文打字机的雏形,可惜当时困战乱而无法成批生产。
    故居陈设相当简单,大致维持原貌,还用展示架撑起了大师生前的一表长抱。钫客从藏书、手稿、几个厅堂卧房的摆设和影片放映,可以一窥林语堂的生活和创作习惯。由客厅改成的餐厅,墙上仍挂着从上海搬来的“有不为斋"题字,紧临阳台还有个小厅,访客可以歇歇脚,泡壶茶或叫杯咖啡,再挑一本书,享受慵懒的山间情调。
    在书房里,印在一个皮盒盖面上的圆形家微颇令人玩味,它由“凤" 字的象形线条组成,而其间又暗含一个小小的“林'' 字。林语堂夫人名为廖翠凤,此枚从林语堂夫妇二人名字中各取一字的图章传达出了两人的心心相印。
    闽南穷牧师的儿子林语堂21岁时,与厦门鼓浪屿富商之女廖翼凤定亲,25岁在上海喜结连理。娶亲那天,林语堂当着众人的面拿出一纸婚书,对着新婚妻子说: "婚书只有在离婚的时候才有用,我们一定用不到。所以,我把它烧了!" 此突兀之举令所有人瞠目结舌。而就是这样一位与林语堂性格迥异、门第悬殊的大家闺秀,和林语堂琴瑟和谐相濡以沫,幸福地相伴了一生。林语堂关于美满婚姻的秘诀是,现代人的毛病是把爱情当饭吃,把婚姻当点心吃,用爱情方式过婚掴,没有不失败的,所以,他主张把婚姻当饭吃,把爱情当点心呓。
    走一圈下来,会发现壁栋别墅称不上很大,但延符合这住生活家所说的:“宅中有园,园中有屋,屋中有院,院中有树,树上有天,天上有月,不亦快哉。
    在园林环绕的宅院后方,地势较低处,一个平铺于草地上的长形墓体赫然映人眼帘,上面镌刻有林语堂好友、国学大师钱穆题写的“林语堂先生之董"几个厚重大字。1976年3月2相林语堂病逝于香港,4月1日,一部《圣经》伴随着林语堂的遗体葬于阳明山故居的后花园中。
    我站在他的墓前,静默了好久。浓浓绿阴中泄露出一钱天光,逝水流年,光阴交错。那些作品里,一切疯狂的、执著的、痴想的文字,就这样和先生一起留了下来,它们被交付给每一年的春风,交付给一片花海和一条河流。
    转身离去时,我暗暗回眸,微风吹过,墓旁的松树微微颔首。绿,此时却显得这般宁静与安详,它淹没在脆弱而汹涌的白雾里,得到了某刻单纯的栖息。

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