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圣彼得堡:精美的雕塑最迷人
发表时间:2013-08-25  浏览数:17669  我要评论(7)

    俄罗斯是我1996年欧行五国之行最后一站,而圣彼得堡更是俄罗斯之行的终点站。在那里,我感受了这个与莫斯声侪名的“双子星城”的绝代风华,至今仍迷恋它那“华丽的历史布景”的余晖。
    俄罗斯文学、艺术,或者说前苏联文学艺术、确实对我们这一代人影响颇深。不说看过《列宁在一九一八》、《战争与和平》托尔斯泰、陀思妥耶夫斯基、果戈理、普希金等作家、诗人的作品,也都或多或少地读过一些;至于湛蓝的涅瓦河和那般打响十月革命第一炮的“阿芙乐尔”号巡洋舰,也都耳熟能详。所有这些,大都同俄罗斯名城圣彼得堡有着千丝万缕的联系。


伊萨基辅大教堂

    宏大叙事的城市景观
    但是,当我徜徉在圣彼得堡的大街上,还是被它宏伟的宫殿式建筑、美轮美奂的教堂,以及数不清5博物馆、雕塑、纪念碑所震撼。这些宏大叙事的城市景观,曾经寄托了多少俄罗新人的光荣与梦想、战争与和平、绝望与希望、野心与卑微……难怪人们会发出这感叹:“没有到过圣彼得堡,就不算真正去过俄罗斯。”
    是的,尽管我来圣之下的红场;也曾经济的大本营——星城宇。
    应该说,对于灵最大触动曾停脚在俄罗斯首都莫斯科,徜徉在盛名桦林的莫斯科郊外,造访发射太空飞船还是认同这一说法。
    的我来讲,圣彼得堡给畔的“阿芙乐尔”号巡洋伊萨基铕大敏堂及穿着白色海军服士兵英姿所带来的时空幻觉;不是在剧院观赏天鹅湖舞蹈以及指挥忘情的投入和俄罗斯歌唱家的精彩演出;甚至不是建筑造诣十分可观的夏宫和它所拥抱的华美画廊,尽管我在参观特列季亚科夫画廊时见到列宾的“伏尔加河上的纤夫”油画,曾被那逼真的写实、有力的线条和磅礴的气势所撼动,也曾在画廊里购买了一册有众多俄罗斯画家作品的画册,为这垡作品的精彩纷呈所折服。最获我心的,还是圣彼得堡数不清的教堂和独具一格的雕塑。
    时过十余年,哪些教堂曾经是我亲眼所见,哪些只看过资料和图片,似乎有点纠缠不清。但是,我依稀记得,在参观涅瓦河畔的“阿芙乐尔”号巡洋舰时,旁边的圣彼得堡伊萨基铺大教堂曾经看过。记得导游说过,这个曾是俄罗斯帝国最主要的大教堂,仅次于梵蒂冈的圣彼得大教堂、伦敦5圣保罗大教堂以及佛罗伦萨的圣母百花大教堂,它们并称为世界四大基督教教堂。
    多彩教堂有无尽沧桑
    早在18世纪60年代至19世纪初,这里曾经建造一座教堂,但还没有完工就荒废掉了。后来,沙皇亚历山大一世决定重建伊萨基辅大教堂,并向全世畀广征设计方案,最后由法国青年建筑师费兰中标。从公元18’8年破士动工算起,伊萨基辅大教堂整整建设了40年才算建成,并于公元1858年5月30日彼得一世诞辰186周年之际举行盛大的祝圣仪式。    尽管当时俄罗斯帝国财力已经颇为雄厚,但工程之浩大还是趄出了人们的想象,建筑材料尤其是花岗岩石枉硕大无比,需要从30公里以外的芬兰湾运输而来,先用数万棵松木放置在沼泽地,以便作运输承重之需;继而用,oo多人推动转盘,方能把一根100百多吨的石柱竖起来。大教堂高逾百米,长110多米,圆顶苴轻为25.8米。教堂内有三扇青铜浇铸的大门,其内里是用橡木雕制的,每扁门面积为42平方米,重达20吨。
    据介绍,装饰这座大教堂所耗费黄金即达410公斤。里面还有许多青铜和大理石雕塑、色彩斑斓的马费克镇嵌画和宗教圣像以及大量使用俄罗斯特产——名贵孔雀石、乌拉尔宝石等制作的艺术品,堪称富丽堂皇,庄重典雅。整座教堂重30万吨,可同时容纳超过12000人做礼拜。
    这么大89教堂,就我目力所见,只有后来看到昀伊斯坦布尔的圣索菲亚大教堂差可比拟。但是,圣索菲亚大教堂在拜点占庭帝国衰落后改建为清真寺,现为博物馆,再经过战争和岁月的破坏、磨难,已经有点面目全非,实在难以一较短长。
    伊萨基辅大教堂圆顶是世界第三高的圆拱形建筑物,巨大的穹顶上绘着巨幅宗教故事图画,系由当时的22位知名画家所作,那些各具特色的银嵌画、浮雕和雕塑,即便我们不知其典故和用意,也还是被它的精美绘制和色彩所硼医。在转了一大圈之后,我和同伴从教堂的一侧,通过旋转楼梯登到教堂的顶部俯瞰,整个圣彼得堡的景色几乎尽收眼底,向东可以看到冬宫、海军部大屡、涅瓦大街,向南可以一览马林斯基宫殿和彼得一世雕像,向北、向西可以欣赏到美丽多姿的湟瓦河及其港口。
    二次世界大战期间, 由于伊萨基辅大教堂的金色圆顶闪闪放光,成了德军轰炸的重点目标。为了保护这座古迹,列宁格勒军民用绿色油滨涂盖了教堂的金顶,并在它的周围布满高射炮。即便这样,教堂还是受到攻击,伤痕累累,修复工作进行了20年。俄罗斯在战后修复教堂时特意保留了教堂大门外的大理石柱子上的几处弹痕,并在一根柱子旁挂上一块铜牌,上写:“这是在1941-1944年,德国法西斯发射的148478发炮弹中其中一发留下的罪证。”

    完美的世界性雕塑
    说实话,匆匆观赏一番伊萨基辅大教堂,已经令我体力有点透支。但如此蕴涵历史与现实的美景,让我欲罢不能。走出教堂,再向北前行200多米,就是十二月党人广场(也叫参政院广场)上的世界纪念性雕塑艺术最完美的作品之一的青铜骑士像。
    以前曾读过普希金的《青铜骑士》诗歌,但我要说的是,给我印象更深的是叶赛宁的《致普希金》——

    憧憬着一个惊人的天才,
    他,代表了俄罗斯的命运……
    在以光荣浇铸的青铜像上,
    你高傲的头望着蓝天……
   直到我那草原般荒凉的诗句,
    能发出昔铜一样的声音。

    这些诗句,好像是写给普希金的,同时也是写给自已的,又好像是写给骑着骏马的彼得大帝,即圣彼得堡市标志·性建筑之一的《青铜骑士像》。
    作为创建圣皮得堡的彼得大帝,女功武略,效法西方,施行改革,揭开了俄罗斯历史上最辉煌的一页。对于彼得大帝,言之暴君者有之,称其为天才改革家者有之,’但他在公元1703年自波罗的海之滨从瑞典人手中夺得的领土上,建起了一座全新的城市圣彼得堡,并从一开始起即对城市建设进行了有计划的设计和改造,亦是俄罗斯由弱国向大国崛起的分水岭。如斯,对彼得大帝的多少褒奖,对于有大国情结的俄罗斯来说,都不算过分。
    《青铜骑士像》因普希金的叙事抒情长诗《青铜骑士》而得名。它由法国著名雕塑家法尔科内创作,历时12年,建成于公元1782年。铜像被安置在一块重达1600吨的天然巨石上,头戴桂冠的彼得大帝稳骑在前蹄腾起的骏马上,显示出了所向无敌的风采。彼得大帝炯炯有神的眼光,目视前方。马后蹄、马尾和蛇构成的支撑点,巧妙地便青铜骑士固定在基座之上。基座是体积庞大的花岗岩“雷石”。
    雕塑家法尔科内曾谈及他的创作理念:“我要建的这座纪念碑很普通……我要雕塑的仅仅是这个人物,我既不会把他诠释为伟大的统帅,也不会把他诠释为胜利者,虽然他两者兼而有之。国家的缔造者和救主5个性远远高于一切。应该把这一点展示给人们。我的沙皇手中没有任何权杖;他把仁慈的手伸向空中,下面是被他走遍的国土。他正攀登山岩的顶部,而山岩就是这座塑像的基座,它象征着他所战胜的困难。”有人解读骏马象征着俄罗斯,而马匹践踏着的长蛇,代表着当时阻止彼得大帝进行改革的旧势力;也有人说蛇代表着与俄罗斯为敌的瑞典。
    《青铜骑士像》是以武力夺取沙皇宝座的叶卡捷林娜二世修建的,这位野心勃勃的女皇为了证明她是彼得大帝正统的继承人,特意邀请雕塑家法尔科内来这里完成他一生中最完美的杰作。如今,这个纪念碑已经戍了富有创造力的铁腕人物彼得大帝的化身,同时也被看做是由他缔造的圣彼得堡市的标志。
    其实,在圣彼得堡以彼得大帝作为雕像不止于此,与之三足鼎立的还有意大利雕塑家卡尔洛·拉斯特雷利雕塑的彼得一世骑士雕像,以及美籍俄罗斯雕塑家米·米·舍米亚金献赠给圣彼得堡的彼得一世铜像。
    后面这座铜像,据说在外貌上与彼得一世真人大小几乎一致,只是看上去脑袋很小,身躯庞大。彼得一世光着脑袋,笔挺地坐在靠背椅上望着前方,令人望而生畏。记得在圣彼得堡期间,这尊铜像,我并没有看到。
    倒是拉斯特雷利雕塑的彼得一世青铜雕像,安放在教堂广场上。这里离我们下榻的酒店不远,在晚饭后我普与友伴来到教堂广场溜达,看到彼得一世头载桂冠,身着盔甲,双唇紧闭,面部神情惟妙惟肖,目光炯炯有神地骑在马背上,手拉着缰绳,骏马前面双蹄腾空而起;一手执着元帅杖,好不威风,如同罗马皇帝不可一世。而雕像的中部四面分别坐着四位女性,神态生动,仪态万方。据说是彼得大帝的妻子与三个女儿的原型。
    而此时,夕阳的余晖洒落在的彼得一世和马背上,好比帝国残阳如血,既苍凉又悲壮。让人生出无限感慨,这座城市光与影的变迁、历史与现实的转换,怎一篇短文所能涵盖?
    时在2012年,也就是彼得大帝从莫斯科迁都到圣彼得堡300年整,如果让我选择所走过的国家和城市故地重游,那么,我一定会选择俄罗斯,选择圣彼得堡。为这些已经见识过的教堂和未曾谍面的圣滴血教堂(又名基督复活大教堂入亚历山大-涅夫斯基大剧院、喀山大教堂以及普希金等世界级文化名人的雕像,真的值得再盘桓一些时日。

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