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另类的澳门风情
发表时间:2014-09-18  浏览数:3424  我要评论(4)

    澳门这地方很有意思。粗看,没有什么惊天动地的地方,可是仔细体味,还别有一番风情。澳门居民只有40多万,可是每年能接待数百万的游客,这可是很另类哦!

    澳门有“东方蒙地卡罗”之称,这里把赌场叫做“娱乐场”。全城有10间颇具规模的赌场,其中以葡京赌场最大。可是本地人却不嗜赌,公务员更是不准进赌场。

    澳门缺少土地,却修建了一个规模很大的赛马场,报纸每天都刊登马经。同时,还有世界上绝无仅有的赛狗场,电视台现场直播比赛实况。

    澳门体育运动水平不算很高,但却有30多个民间体育总会,300多个分场,设施先进,还能举办诸如国际马拉松、世界女排大奖赛等大型国际体育赛事。

    在居民中,澳门以中国人为主,还有几万葡萄牙人,也有土生葡人。这里可听到粤语、英语、普通话和葡语。所以,有人风趣地说,澳门是“一二三四”,即一国两制,三种货币,四种语言。


葡京赌场

    晃晃悠悠的感觉

    到了澳门才真正体会到澳门之小。除去两个离岛,澳门半岛的总面积还不到8平方公里。因此景点与景点之间的距离很近,常常是转个弯就到,车程不过5分钟。在这样的城市旅行,上车下车的重复倒成了累赘。

    过去人们口头上习惯称澳门为“澳门街”,意思是说澳门小到只有一条街。所以说,小城澳门是最适合不戴表,安步当车,东瞧西望地闲逛。

    澳门虽然地方不大,但环境恬静安宁,宛若花园城市,即使盛夏也是碧绿的清凉世界。居民生活也比较悠闲,与此相适应的是,半岛上拥有多座花园,供居民游览休憩。

    走在澳门的街道上,最深的感受便是:路弯、车多。除了新填海区域以外,绝大部分街道都是依照原始的海岛地形建造,因此蜿蜒狭小且坡度很陡。就因为路段弯多坡陡,澳门才成为每年世界三级汽车方程赛的著名赛地之一。

    汽车在澳门相当普及,最多是日本进口的小型车。据当地人介绍,这种车一般卖10万澳币左右(澳币汇率与港币大致相等)。但澳门的住房大都没有停车库,哪怕是在坡度很陡的山道上,也挤挤挨挨“泊”成一列长队。

    澳门的房子不高,也不太密,但是透着浓浓的葡萄牙风格,红的蓝的黄的,圆的方的尖的屋顶,煞是活泼。漫步在大街小巷里就像是小城假日里赶集的感觉,悠闲,轻松,不同的是,古老的建筑添加了一些异国风情。

    穿梭于大街小巷,其中不少街名令人发笑,如山鸡巷、风炉匠巷、剪发匠巷、烦懑围、手肘里、匙羹里……城市的心脏——新马路的官方名字是亚美打利匹卢大马路,澳门人大都喜欢简简单单地叫它新马路,这是市区的主要街道,连接南湾街和内港。这条马路长不足两公里,但处处可见澳门昔日的生活痕迹。

    以中国银行大厦这座澳门最高的建筑物为步行起点,沿新马路往前走是第一购物区,路左是现代化的中央广场,里面有不少像Giorgio Armani、圣罗兰和ESCADA这样的名店。走过一个街口,就是南光工艺品中心,这里专门出售品质上乘的黄金、珠宝首饰、瓷器、工艺品和其他纪念品。到了议事亭再往前就到了澳门市政厅,议事亭是它的旧称。1784年落成,几经修葺扩建,仍保持着16世纪南欧宫廷式的布局风格。议事亭后花园中央有一长满小草的球形平台,上有交叉排列的十字线条,象征葡萄牙早期的世界探险。议事亭前地是澳门精华的荟萃地,要想领略澳门繁华与朴实的每一面,一定要在这里坐坐。这块面积达3700平方米的广场地面,由葡萄牙的能工巧匠按南欧传统风格,用碎石子镶嵌而成,犹如微波轻漾的海面,一直连绵到大三巴牌坊。这段路已辟为行人专用,所有车辆禁行。前地的两旁,是一幢幢鹅黄、粉红、浅绿色的西式三层建筑,有建于1568年的亚洲大陆最古老的欧洲慈善机构——仁慈堂大楼,有澳门政府旅游司,还有不少时尚名店。每逢节日或大型活动,相关机构都会在这里举办表演供大众欣赏。玫瑰圣母堂前地尽头就是于1590年由道明会修士兴建的玫瑰圣母堂,因最早是由木板隔间而成,所以也称“板樟堂”。整座建筑就像它的名字一样美丽典雅。开放时间一般在下午,须先按门铃,然后从边上闸门入内,绕过一条长长的内廊柱到达教堂内部。堂内存有许多富有奇趣的油画及雕像,尤以耶稣基督像最为著名,从中可窥见西班牙宗教艺术特殊的之处。

    第二购物区沿新马路继续往前走,右边是一些中药铺和首饰店。经过中央酒店(1928年开张,曾是澳门博彩中心)后就是营地大街(可由此转向果栏街)。在新马路上,还可以看见许多昔日的当铺,街道楼房的前壁上保存着一些精致的浮雕,这些古旧的建筑大部分都被修葺一新。转入炉石塘巷,可见到佛笑楼(澳门最古老的酒楼,以烧乳鸽著称)。再往左转,就到了福隆新街(昔日著名的烟花之地),福隆街可通往内港,那里有不计其数的商店,出售的货品从咸鱼到澳门的风味糕点和明炉烧烤的猪肉,应有尽有……向右拐就来到了内港码头边,对面是国际酒店,是新马路末端的标志。

    从议事亭前地可以看到大炮台的古老城墙矗立在玫瑰圣母堂的后面。在板樟堂街拐向卖草地街,沿大三巴街(内有很好的古董店和家具店)向前走,就到了大三巴牌坊(圣保禄教堂遗址)前的石阶。被焚毁的圣保禄教堂由一位意大利神甫设计,糅合了欧洲文艺复兴时期巴洛克建筑与东方建筑的风格,由日本工匠精雕细刻费时25年于1637年建成,是当时远东最大的天主教堂。教堂附设修道院,课程有神哲学、理学及其他科学,规模不亚于当时欧洲的大学。圣保禄的学生名册中至今保留着利马窦、汤若望和吴历的名字。这座教堂仿佛与火有不解之缘,从建造之初起先后历经三次大火。1835年1月26日傍晚,澳门遭受强台风袭击,圣保禄教堂起火,风助火势,足足烧了两个多小时,使这座远东著名的大教堂仅剩下一堵形似中国牌坊的门壁,也是教堂最珍贵的前壁供后人凭吊。至今在这面幸存的残壁上,仍留存着许多含义丰富的精美雕塑,让人遥想这座建筑鼎盛时的荣光。

    还有一些女孩子感兴趣的地方:板樟堂街俗称女人街;水坑尾街的衣服不是名牌但很便宜;福隆新街的杏仁饼、姜汁糖,是会吸引香港人特意过来光顾的;中国银行附近有家常年打三折的Esprit专卖店……和香港一样,澳门有许多低税甚至免税商品,比如香水。

    紧张刺激看赛车

    11月到澳门的游客很容易感染到空气中洋溢着那份兴奋和期待,因为一年一度的澳门格兰披治大赛车就要开锣!摩托车、超级房车和三级方程式赛车等都将在媲美摩纳哥蒙地卡罗的曲折车道中竞技。赛道要经过起伏的东望洋山、水塘旁的急转弯和沿着外港的笔直大道等。赛车好手能以2分20秒跑一圈,车技确实出众。自1954年开始赛车以来,不少国际知名的一级方程式(F-1)顶尖高手都曾来此参赛。这一项比赛有近五十年历史,被誉为全亚洲除了日本和马来西亚的两场一级方程式赛事以外的全世界最多人认识的亚洲赛车盛事。对本地车手来说,澳门大赛车已成为一项每年都必须一到的大赛。预赛和正式比赛期间,全城弥漫着兴奋和紧张刺激的气氛:引擎的轰鸣声、络绎不绝的游客、街道上飘扬的彩色广告旗帜,城市的生活节奏完全改变。每年的澳门格兰披治大赛,均会有来自世界各地的赛车好手汇聚于此,更有大批的赛车迷们蜂拥而至。精彩、刺激的比赛盛况,加上路旁赛车加油的人潮,将赛会气氛炒到最高点,是一场全球赛车迷不容错过的刺激盛会!

    赌场一游

    澳门是一个略带伤感和琐碎的地方,即使是一座赌城,也不像拉斯维加斯那般奢靡,这大概是每一个到过澳门的人的印象。葡京、皇宫、假日、金碧等娱乐场是众多赌场中最著名的。娱乐场内一般都设有百家乐、21点、轮盘、法国轮盘、番摊、大小、摇银机等博彩项目。入夜之后,灯火最亮、最为热闹的就是这些地方。葡京是圆柱形外建筑,设计成圆形鸟笼的样式,提醒赌徒,进了赌场就像进了牢笼一样。酒店的穹顶上有许多钢针扎在一个心上,有赌徒会下地狱遭到万剑穿心之惩罚的寓意,不过这些就好像是香烟盒上印的“吸烟有害健康”的形式。进入赌场要过安检。一层主要是21点、老虎机,看的人多,玩的人少。二层以上是VIP区,那些一看就知道是游客而不是赌客的人到处都受到保安有礼貌的限制。

    赌场周围小街上有许多典押行,也就是当铺。当铺里面卖二手的名表、首饰,听说识货的本地人买东西就到这里,比专卖店里便宜20%~30%.

    葡京酒店的疯狂巴黎艳舞团是澳门历史最悠久的表演,性感惹火但绝不低俗。由来自欧洲、澳洲和美国的美艳女郎演出多姿多彩的舞蹈。葡京酒店内多功能的舞台,高科技的灯光和音响,配合法籍导演编排的美妙舞姿,节目内容每隔数月即全部换新,都是这个舞台历久不衰的原因。舞团每晚8时和9时30分各演出一场,周六则于晚上11时加演一场。

    享受美味

    中西文化荟萃的澳门真是老饕的天堂。时兴的美食广场越来越普遍,不论是汉堡、面食、薄饼、烤肉串应有尽有,而且物美价廉,在大饱口福之后,没有心疼荷包之忧。

    窄窄的板樟堂巷里有一家小小的米饼屋,米饼屋专卖葡萄牙式的糕饼甜点,也兼卖香醇的咖啡。一楼是蛋糕柜,二楼是咖啡座,这里常常是挤满了形形色色的外国人。葡式甜点长得不甚起眼,但奇甜无比,配上一杯黑咖啡,调配出一段美丽的下午茶时光。小巧的堂记面食跻身在议事亭前地的众多店铺间,显得格外不起眼,即便如此,这家有20多年历史的小面店还是澳门人的最爱:汤头清香、细滑爽口的云吞面,是这里的招牌,云吞皮薄而虾肉鲜美,有种耐得回味的精致口感。已有百年历史的义顺炖奶,是澳门的特产之一,据老板称,炖奶是其祖先因经营牧场而自创的一种奶制品。此店最出名的是双皮炖鲜奶、冰花炖鸡蛋及芒果西米露等3种甜品,前两种口感滑顺,有如布丁般入口即化,而且都有冷热两种口味。创业近40年的沙利文餐厅,不仅是澳门料理的招牌老店,还曾获得世界美食协会的肯定与见证。这里的招牌菜是巧制咖喱蟹、非洲辣鸡、炸澳门龙俐鱼和烧银鳕鱼,独家调制的酱料令人回味无穷,想要犒赏旅途中疲惫的自己,沙利文绝对不会让你失望。玛嘉烈蛋挞自从与安德鲁蛋挞分家后,玛嘉烈蛋挞的经营手法似乎赢得了更多女性消费者的青睐。在巷弄一角摆出一个露天咖啡座,阳光偶尔从两旁的大楼空隙间溜了进来,蛋挞的香甜与咖啡的醇浓,激荡出一段最有澳门气息的旅程。澳门的葡国菜有葡式及澳门式,其中澳门式葡国菜更适合东方人口味,而葡国青菜汤、红豆猪手、马介休(即鳕鱼)、葡国鸡等菜式不容错过。澳门出售的葡国餐酒价廉物美,其售价较葡国本土还要便宜一半。最好再到仔出名的葡国餐馆饱餐一顿。那些比较出名的葡国餐馆的名字都挺有趣的,小飞象啦,木偶啦,公鸡啦什么的,听上去像是童话世界里蹦出来的一样。

    离岛

    仔和路环是澳门的两个离岛,三地之间有大桥及公路相连接。仔和路环属于郊区,环境优美,空气清新,是休闲游乐的好去处。在这两个岛上,遍布葱翠的山丘、旖旎迷人的沙滩,以及古朴清纯的村庄,洋溢一片大自然的醉人景色。

    时至今日,离岛的建筑,除了新近兴建的高层大厦之外,仍然保留着低矮的平房村屋建筑,部分楼宇更具深厚的葡国色彩。在离岛,各种游乐设施一应俱全,有豪华舒适的酒店、度假村,有提供刺激娱乐的赛马会,有舒展身心的郊野公园等等。此外,很多驰名的餐厅食肆也开设在这两个岛上。这一切设施与清新的大自然景致相融合,构成离岛的特色,让人感到舒适惬意。每日早上7时至晚上12时,澳门的两间巴士公司均有大型及小型公共汽车穿梭行驶于澳门、仔和路环三地,乘客可于公共汽车沿途所经各车站登车。

    澳门的“世界之最”

    澳门人口密度世界最大澳门人口40多万,70%为中国籍,28%为葡籍。澳门平均每平方公里近2万人,比日本东京的人口密度还要高。在澳门人口最密的花王堂区,每平方公里的人口超过10万人。另外,澳门每年还要接待数百万人次的外地游客,所以这里人显得格外多。澳门的人口密度高居世界榜首,被列入《吉尼斯世界纪录大全》。

    澳门的汽车密度高居世界前列全澳门有公路90公里左右,却有近6万辆机动车。如果这些车辆全都开出的话,每公里的路面上要塞600多辆汽车。可以想象澳门的交通状况该是多么拥挤,难怪不少澳门人都安步当车,宁愿行色匆匆地走路,也不愿开车或坐车出门。

    澳门还拥有一支世界上最大的喷射船队由于和香港的特殊关系,来往港澳之间的游客非常多。为此,澳门建立了一支数量可观、方式多样的水上运输船队,平均每天近200班次。其中班次最密的是喷射船,这是一支由波音飞机的发动机作为动力的船队。这种船贴着水面飞航,时速高达70多公里,来往港澳不足1个小时。通常白天每隔15分钟一班,夜晚半个小时一班;节假日还要增加班次。这支船队是适应澳门旅游和博彩业的发展而组建起来的。现在这支船队也开通了直航深圳蛇口的路线。

     来源:《深圳周刊》

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