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探访圣地亚哥古堡
发表时间:2013-08-15  浏览数:9047  我要评论(4)

    世界上不少名胜古迹,大多同名人逸事有着关联,这才有历史的沧桑感,才能让游客感受文化底蕴并为之流连忘返。201t年6月间的菲律宾圣地亚哥古堡(Fort Santiago)一游,让我真切地感受到菲律宾的历史变迁,品味到一段荡气回肠的传奇。
    6月20日,从北京飞往乌尼拉。当晚,主人接待我们到一个颇为不错的自助餐厅用餐,冰冷的芒果冻、新鲜的生鱼片,都是平日的最爱。或许,水土不服,第一审 吟唱诗散不会徒无功 再加上洗澡水冰冷,随即肚子就发出抗议,感冒也来了。22日,也就是临别菲律宾的前一天,主人安排我们参观圣地亚哥古堡。我原本想独自在家休息·但陈先生等乡侨到酒店前来探望,并盛情邀我在落日大道边上的中餐馆吃了早茶,并劝说来一趟不容易,应该去黎刹纪念馆看看:“这位菲律宾人的国父,祖上还是我们晋江人哩。”

    恭敬不如从命。在放下手头生意的陈先生的导引下,我们来到这个菲律宾最负盛名的古迹——有着400多年历史的圣地亚哥古城堡,现在也是黎刹纪念馆的所在地。
    说是古堡,确实名不虚传。从停车场下来,走过一条石径,旁边是石头砌就的护栏,底下是条护城河。温潺流水,淌过多少时光,倘过多少菲律宾人的屈辱与荣光、眼泪与欢欣。
    要进入古城堡,首先要通过一个供形的门楼,门墙上还有葡萄牙人的雕刻,高出城墙的部分还有一个三角形的顶部,门楼两旁同样是用石头、砖头建造的城墙,经历数百年岁月淘洗,有的砖头已经剥落、丢失。陈先生告诉我,这个城堡是古代的皇城,公元1590年西班牙总督圣地亚哥将原本用木栅栏围成e-城寨改建戍石城堡。诗人斗士黎刹其人其事-
   步人古城堡,真是别有洞天。园区内古树参天,既有热带B棕搁树,也有菲律宾特有的树种,园区中央竖立了一尊黎刹的铜像,基座是用石头垒成的,铜像正对着我们进来的门楼。据说铜像与黎刹真人高度相一致。铜像的背后,是黎刹纪念馆。
    能在这一最具历史感的古城堡竖立铜像,意味着在菲律宾人心目中,黎刹有着至高无上的地位。
    黎刹曾被关在这座古城堡内一座两层的小楼里,并从这里被押赴刑场行扣1处决。菲律宾共和国成立后,这里辟为黎刹纪念馆。

    在这座纪念馆中,我们看到了不少黎刹的遗物,我的印象中,这里有他生前的衣服、书籍、手稿、手杖以及描绘t也就义前情景的巨幅油画等,此外,还袋比迪忘挫长——老记者的18年环球跆    有他的绝命诗《最后书怀》(又译为《永别了,我的祖国》、《我最后的诀别》等)    写在楼里的一面墙上。一个穿着黑衣的菲律宾人无精打采地坐在纪念馆的一隅,等待着游客购买一些有关黎刹的介绍资料,其中他的绝命诗用一张白纸翻译成七言诗。我本来想找那人要一份,他用手指指装钱的盒子,意思是要钱的。后来,我的同乡陈先生拿出一张菲币给他,才换来这首密密麻麻印在纸上的中文译诗。
    从纪念馆里的资料和陈先生的介绍中,我得知,黎刹公元1861年6月19日生于内湖省卡兴巴镆,其祖籍为福避晋江上郭村。其高祖父柯南戈(Dorrrmgol:Ln)一Co)于公元1662年(即清康熙元年)出生在上郭,在早年移居菲律宾,至黎刹已是第四代。
    黎刹自幼聪慧,精通菲律宾以及西班牙等多国文字。公元1875年,他就获取文学学士学位,随后人圣道顿马士皇家教会大学,攻读哲学,兼学美术,后因母亲患眼疾,遂改读医科。18岁写出《给菲律宾青年》这首鼓绍人心的爱国诗篇,获全国诗歌比赛一等奖,被誉为菲律宾青年诗人,也因此受到西班牙殖民当局的迫害。21岁,他远赴欧洲留学,三年后,取得医学博士学位,并在大学里执教,被欧扒1学术界视为颇有成就的学者。
    多才多艺的黎刹,既当医生,又是诗人、作家,并长期关注西班牙殖民统治者对菲律宾人民的歧视和压迫。公元1887年他在欧洲执教,期间用西班牙文创作《社会毒瘤》和续篇《起义者》, 号召菲律宾人民开展反对殖民统治的武装革命斗争。
    公元1892年6月,刚过而立之年的黎刹回到菲律宾,创建菲律宾联盟,并亲自撰写联盟章程,投身于反对西班牙殖民者的洪流中。同年7月7 日,黎刹被捕锍放到遥远荒僻的棉兰老岛。公元t896年,他被押回马尼拉,囚禁,在圣地亚哥古堡监狱内,殖民当局决定以“非法结社和文字煽动叛乱”I1罪名将其处死。
    斗士黎刹的壮举和不屈精神已然感人,再有佳人的元素接入,使得黎刹的壮烈就义更有传奇色彩。据说,当年黎刹曾为一位爱尔兰姑娘约瑟芬·布蕾肯治愈了眼疾,这位姑娘被他的善良和才华所打动,以身相许。后来,黎量比设忘掉长——者i己者的18年环球硌刹被囚禁在古堡监狱内,约瑟芬·布蕾肯几乎每天都来城堡外,争取能见他-面。
    就在黎刹行刑前,殖民当局答应了这位爱尔兰姑娘的请求,在古堡的草地上,黎刹和布蕾肯举行了他们开1[肠上的婚礼。公元1896年t2月30日,黎刹谢甲赴肠,就地枪决,时年仅35岁。而在他慵慨就义后两年,西班牙对菲律宾的殖民统治也宣告终结。
    《最后书怀》译本多多,值得一提的是,黎刹在圣地亚哥古堡牢狱中写下的《最后书怀》, 能够与读者见面也曲折动人。在临刑前一天,黎刹把这首抒情长诗藏在酒精灯里,交给前来探监的妹妹特莉妮达带出监狱,再由黎刹的妻子布蕾肯带到中国香港,并最终于1897年1月公之于众。诗歌发表后,在菲律宾乃至全世界都得到很大的反响,包括菲律宾本地语言在内5全部版本则多达,79种。显然,这种统计应该也可能    存在疏漏。
    但由此也可以看出,黎刹的绝命诗的文学性以及诗中洋溢的着呼唤自由、反抗殖民统治的精神,还是备受热爱自由、崇尚正义的人们所推崇和喜爱。中国的文化巨人鲁迅留学日本期间,就接触到梁启超翻译的题为《重中呼声》的绝命诗,译文精到凝练,极富感染力:

    方见天际破晓,我即与世长辞,膊胧夜色已尽,光明白日将至;
    若是天色菇浃,有我鲜血在此;
    任凭祖国需妥,倾注又何足惜;
    洒落一片殷红,初升曙光染赤。

    黎刹的诗、粱任公的翻译,激励了许多像鲁迅这样的志士仁人,精神与黎刹相逋,愿为祖国独立自由,不惜血荐轩辊。印象中,曾在菲律宾参加抗日活动的诗人林林也翻译了这首诗。
    在写这篇随笔的时候,我曾找米在纪念馆买的《黎刹绝命诗·我的最后的诀别》译诗,同梁任公翻译的那段作对比,这位署名“Jrm”的译者是这样翻译的:

    刚看到天际破晓,我即将与世长辞。
    透过膊腕的夜色,光明的白日将至。
    如感到天色菇蓝,有我的鲜血在此。
    只要是祖国需要,倾注有什么可惜。
    洒落一片片殷红,把初升晤光染赤。

    可以说,这段译诗,同粱启超的翻译并没有太大的不同。只是由六字改为七字。在长达14章t40行的绝命诗中,黎刹是这样收尾的:

    别了父老兄弟们,我生活中的人儿,
    我那破灭的家园,童年无猜的伴侣。
    感谢让我终脱离,一生的力竭精疲。
    别了可爱异邦人,我的友人和欢乐,
    别了亲爱的一切,死就是永远安息。

    可以说,黎剃是把他的歌声、叹气、信仰、哀愁中的哀愁、渴望自由的心迹,亳不保留地奉献给自已的祖国。他走得心安,走得从容。历史现实交织的迷思在黎刹纪念馆后面,还有一处水牢遗址,同样值得一看。这是一个建在炮台下方的地窖,底下和两面墙壁由长条石头建造,在烈日的暴晒下,水牢已经干枯。但陈先生告诉我们,在菲律宾被日本占领统治期间,这里是用来关押政治犯的。地窖与古堡外的河流相通,一旦河水上涨,牢里的犯人就性命难保。据说,有救百位菲华游击队员就是以这样的方式死去,然后,日军拉开水闸,让这些罹难者的尸体流入马尼拉河。
    这种悲俸而壮烈的放菲,让人感伤、惆怅,对于曾经被日本侵略者欺凌的国人,可以说感同身受。
    当我们即将告别圣地亚哥古城堡时,适值正午。而过天晴的右城堡,静游地迎接来自四面八方的访客;城楼的石头爬端青翠的藤萤,马尼拉湾的波浪荡漾,轻轻地诉说着岁月的沧桑以及古堡内的陈年往事,散发着沉郁与忧伤的气息,让人坠入历史与现实交织的迷思中。
    此时此刻,我只想用黎刹的诗意对右堡说:我惊叹于空间的浩瀚与时间的无际,不想眇醒你的清睡与深沉的神秘,厥这粗疏的文字作为献;剖尔的“最后的骊歌”。

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