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泰国寺庙行
发表时间:2013-08-25  浏览数:19487  我要评论(7)

    在炎热的夏天,如果阳光普照,走在曼谷的大街小巷,你常常会感到被一种闪闪金光笼罩。这不仅仅是因为热带充足的阳光,还有佛寺建筑的金碧辉煌,佛像的金装金粉闪耀。
    据说全泰国有超过90%的人口信奉佛教。目前,奉国计有大小寺庙3万多座,素有“千佛之国”和“黄袍佛国”的美称;首都曼谷更是数量为最,有“佛庙之都”之誉。

    泰国是中国游客最早熟悉的国家之一,新马泰是国人的一条热门旅游路钱,不少人一方面是冲着它资用低廉、交通方便而去的;还有相当数量的人来泰国旅游;, 将参观寺庙、求神拜佛、许愿还愿作为旅游行程中重要的一环。
    夏日的曼谷时晴时雨,阴晴不定。公务之余,余君伉俪热情邀请我们去看黄袍佛国的“三宝”。这“三宝”分别是大皇宫劳边的玉佛寺和卧佛寺,以及唐人街附近的金佛寺。
    佛教寺庙在东南亚和中国东南沿海香火很盛,t言者甚众。我的家乡泉州,民间同样有礼佛信教传统,末代学者朱熹有“此地古称佛国,满街尽是圣人”之说。但说实话,烧香拜佛,献上供品,跪求神明保佑,或为升官,或为发财,或保平安,可谓有所舍去有所求取。

    玉佛寺卧佛寺失之交臂
    出于传统影响和敬畏之心,参观寺庙时,我通常不敢亵慢,但观望多于崇拜,欣赏寺庙的对联辞意或书法强过对神佛崂拜。此番过玉怫寺门而未人,所谓“身人宝山,空手而归”, 也无多少缺憾。一者在泰时间太过短促,二者是集体行动,几个人的心态谅必大体如斯。是以,我们只在大皇宫前面照了几张照片,就没有进去这个有着与中国故宫等量齐观的大皇宫,以及位于大皇宫的东北角、本身也是皇宫组成部分的玉佛寺。

    当然,我也了解到,这座f共在大殿正中神龛里的玉佛像,是表人心目中的国宝,其名贵不言而喻。据介绍,玉佛像由蝗块翡翠雕刻而成,高66厘米,宽48厘米,是尊禅定式的佛像。
    它的价值不仅在碧玉的价值连城,还在于有着丰富的政治象征意义。每当换季时节,泰国国王都亲自为玉佛更衣,换上由黄金和珠宝做成的不同季节的新装,以保国奉民安;每当泰国内阁更迭之际,新内阁成员均要在玉佛寺向国王宣暂就职;每逢三月农耕节时,国王还在此举行宗教仪式,祈祷丰收。玉佛寺与大皇宫相邻,是泰国所有寺庙中最崇高的代表,到泰国观光,很少有不到玉佛寺一游的。
    同样矢之交臂的,还有位于大皇宫西南角的卧佛寺(Wa’Pho)。据说,这尊供奉于卧佛寺内的释迦牟尼卧佛,全长46米,身高IS米,仅足掌长度便为S米,是曼谷市最大,亦是泰国三大卧佛之一。

    游金佛寺探寻来历
    金佛寺(Wat Tt)尽管供奉的佛像没有上述两尊大佛那么显赫,观光者似乎也少了一点,我们反而详细参观了一番。
    这个位于唐人街附近的寺院,确切地讲,应是黄金佛寺。寺庙本身并不大,周围为一些低矮的建筑所簇拥,院内有一个停车场,也停放不了多少辆车。我们去的那天,参观或膜拜者并不很多。
    从不高的石阶上去,脱去皮鞋,便进入主殿,殿内供奉一尊盘膝而坐的释迦牟尼金像,宝冠巍峨,肩宽腰细,右手垂膝,左手向上置于腹脐之前,垂目下视。通体金光闪闪,庄严肃穆,佛像前面两侧有两个花篮,有鲜花供奉。据说,这尊金佛像重达5.5吨,高近4米,用纯金打造;也有一说,含金量只有六成。但是,这尊泰国恚可奉时代的文物,堪称黄袍佛国的无价之宝。
    对于它的来历,众说纷纭。有说其铸造年代约在十二三世纪,距今约800年了。相传金佛铸成之后,为避免歹徒觊觎,遂于金佛外面涂上厚厚的一层泥土,且当时佛像供在一个偏远而荒凉之地,未受关注。后来,华人在泰定居,渐成规模,决定请一尊释迦牟尼佛镇守。于是,他们把这尊扔在荒山上的孤寂的佛像请了回来,结果在搬运过程中,发现佛像可拆卸成九节,在运抵寺庙后,佛身有一块沾着泥土的铁壳掉下,露出金佛真相,故起名为金佛寺。
    另有一说,建造于素可奉王朝的这尊金佛,曾长理地下,外敌入侵,为了防止金佛被当时外来入侵者掳走,爱国志士在其身上浍以灰泥,堙在上中达300多年,后被发掘出土,但因佛身涂了灰泥,不够美观,被供奉在湄公河岸边的一座旧庙里。后因庙址改建仓库,在搬运金佛时不慎摔了一下,佛身灰泥脱落,显露出一尊形态栩栩如生的金佛,遂成为稀世珍宝。l955年,三位华人集资建成此寺,于是请来这尊佛像镇守,供信徒顶礼膜拜,故又名之三华寺或三友寺。
    步出主殴,我和同行使在院内照相,除了主建筑,中间的雕刻也颇有特色。

    闹市雨中邂逅四面佛
    此次曼谷之行,说了玉佛、卧佛和金佛“三宝”, 还得说说信众很多的“四面佛”。
    来泰之前,就听说曼谷有座四面佛,有求必应,灵验得很。不过,那天要去观赏四面佛,雨下得不小,满街堵车,我们只好把车停在离它不远的地下停车场,迎着绵绵小雨,来到这声名远播四面佛的所在地。
    百闻不如一见。这尊四面佛,就坐渚在:曼谷闹市区的一个不大的街角,后面就是凯悦大酒店的人口处,著名的曼谷世界贸易中心大厦就在它的斜对面,周围尽是高楼大厦,道路上车水马龙,人行道就与它挨着。实际上,这尊四面佛,是有着四尊佛的法身背对背朝着四个方向,佛像本身不大,也许应了“山不在高,有仙则名。水不在深,有龙则灵”之说。在香烟缭绕之中,烛光摇曳,雨丝飘飘,信众合掌喃喃祈祷,有的更给佛像献上花束。此情此景,再加上佛曲回环往复,确实有点庄严神秘的氛围。
    据同行介绍,四面佛(大梵天)最初来自婆罗门教。此前,我曾到过柬埔寨的吴哥古城,也看过吴哥王城那著名的“高棉微笑”——巴戎寺的四面佛,虽因时间关系,只是匆匆一面。不过,对其来历还是有些许了解。
    据称,四面佛原名“大梵天王”, 为印度婆罗门教三大神之一,乃是创造天地之神、众生之父,天王在天界中法力无边,掌管人间荣华富贵,表人称之为“有求必应佛”。对其四面诠释,也不尽相同。有的认为四面蕴宫事业、爱情、健康与财运;有的则认为指的是慈、悲、喜、舍。不管是哪种说法,求取的都是信众所希望拥有的,尤其在婚姻、求子方面,更为灵验。不过,有的人说信众如在佛前许愿,一旦得偿夙愿,就要再来还愿,否则会受到处罚。
    这种说法,既有有求必应的慈悲,也有知恩图报的念想,可能更近人世红尘,反而崇拜者日众,香火不断。
    泰毕文媒体常有报道,一些中国港台地区的影视明星在四面佛前许萼如愿以偿,而多次往返泰国还愿,年年都前来泰国向这尊佛像膀拜。我们还开玩笑地说,也许,因为“佛法无边”, 这个黄袍佛国的民众性格忍让温和,就是我们在曼谷遇到的示威集会场面,火药味也不是那么浓烈,“微笑之邦”果然名不虚传。

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