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踱上城墙,墙外是汀江
发表时间:2013-07-17  浏览数:3827  我要评论(2)

   “天下水流皆向东,唯有汀水独往南。'' 汀江从武夷山脉上发源而来,沿途哺育了两岸肥沃的土地,最后汇入粤东的韩江。因它的流向从北向南,按八卦方位,-称为 "丁水。, 后“丁“加水成“汀“, 形成“汀江“得名。
    可以想象,在若干年前,汀江边总是少不了前来挑水做饭的妇人,扁担吱吱悠悠地唱着晚调,孩子跟在后面一路小跑,牙牙学语。远处,被树荫笼罩的老屋上空升起一缕缕炊烟。

    然而,不知道从什么时候开始,长汀的人胆子变小,他们只在洗澡、洗衣服和冲马桶时,才使用源于汀江的水。
    长汀保存了不少宋明时期的客家民居,它继承了中原的府第式建筑风格,沿中轴线两边展开,层层递进,前后左右对称,布局严谨。这种民居规模大的可容纳几十户人家居住。有的前设门楼,后有闺阁绣花楼,并建有 "美人靠“弧形栏杆座椅,十分典雅别致。这类客家民居建筑,以长汀围屋最为典型,它和客家土楼一样,是客家人聚族而居的“家族城素“建设街是长汀的一条老街。那里有一棵600余年的古老铁树。树边修有亭子回廊,一群老头老太太们聚在一起,有人拉看二胡,有人放声高歌,那歌的调子透着几分苍凉,唱腔也带着些许沙哑,但听者都如痴如醉,锥心动容。歌儿是客家话,我听不大懂,凑上前去看歌本,原来是些客家的情歌。
    建设街按照现在的意义上来说,充其量也不过是一条较为宽阁的巷子罢了。电线零乱地交错在巷子的上空,大碗形状的路灯俯视着过往的人们;各式各样的木雕作坊,老式的理发店,小卖部,小吃店,牙科诊所,药店,字画坊应有尽有;许多废弃的院落里已长满杂草,墙角上残留着淡淡的孩子们的信手涂鸦:一位挑着扁担的老妇从“三个代表。的墙边走过,对面是“海信HISENSE" 几个大字;巷子里不时有奔行蜻戏的儿童,古老的院子端坐看青布衫的老人,客家人的生活宁和而谈定。
    长汀的美就在不经意间一个个跳了出来:静静的青石板、逼仄的古城卜1、幽深的街巷、百年的老店……这个“破败“的古老山城,骨子里却焕发着一种别致的魅力。
    像<西游记\}里一样,随意走进一个院子,讨水喝,房主人却沏了一杯清香四谥的铁观音。听他将千年古城娓娓道来,古往今来,天上人卜81,真幻真辨。
    当今时世,经常听到有人叹息世风日下,人心不古。在长汀,则刚好相反。举凡衣食住行,接触到的各色人等,设有任何一副奸猾市侩的面孔,设有些微不快。耳闻目睹的,是亲切、恳挚、真诚、周到。    我忽而对长汀的印象好起来,虽然她看起来一点不出彩。但也许就是这样,她才保留了淳朴的美丽。    沈从文说:美丽总是愁人的。
    其实,美丽也往往是寂寞的。
    历尽千年,宠辱不惊。长汀的安详和美丽,已遍散到了长汀的每个角落;或者说,也只有在角落里,才能够找到她的美丽。

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