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长汀的美,凝聚在不起眼的角落里
发表时间:2013-07-17  浏览数:4612  我要评论(2)

    新西兰女作家路易·文黎曾说过,中国最美丽的两个山城就是湖南的凤凰和福建的长汀。
    凤凰早已去过了,商业气息太浓,人也实在太多。若是一个美食家,来这里兴许能满足口腹之欲:但若是冲着沈从文先生去的,大多都失望而归。
    那么去长汀看看,如何?
    龙岩到长汀的班车大约两个小时一班,车很空,但路很难走。客车在闽西崎岖的山路上颠簸了约两个小时,长汀就到了。

    背包走出车站,映入眼帘的是四处乱穿的摩托、小贩和旧汽车:街上多是低矮斑驳的楼房和店铺,新、旧城混杂,明显缺乏规划:大街的两边盎立着不甚明确的路标,粗俗的广告牌霸道地占领着视觉空,间;一些建筑和墙上挂着或刷着横七竖八的标语,城市似乎凌乱而破旧;大名鼎鼎的汀江也不干净,水面漂浮着塑料袋等脏物…··跟丽江、和顺、阳朔相比,这里全无古城的感觉,只像一个脏乱的小县城。这就是所谓的“中国最美的山城之一“?
    千里迢迢,远道而来,看到的却是这副模样,心已凉了大半。
    失望之余,决定先去祟祟五脏庙。找了家小窖馆坐下,点了份水饺。
    在窖馆门口处,简单搭了一个棚子,里面有两个动作熟练的小工,和面,擀皮儿,拌陷,包饺子……两名小工动作非常熟练,这种熟练已俨然不再是孰练工的机械式的操作,而更傣是艺术工作者在表演。我饶有兴致地看看这一幕,忘了饥饿。
    老板好心过来提醒:“小伙子,饺子凉了。'' 我冲他笑笑。老板很热心,倒杯水给我,,顺势坐在了对面。
    闲聊中,我不免有些抱怨长汀盛名之下,名不副实。老板眯着小眼睛说:“长汀的美,凝聚在不起眼的角落里,所以没有耐心的人,觅不见她的美。
    在黄昏吃完“午餐", 在店老板的指引下,往长汀的唐代古城墙而去。
    长汀古城墙的历史据说可以追溯到1200多年前的唐朝。当时的长汀叫汀州,筑城是因为汀江一带聚居的民众愈来愈多。这些流民多是从中原地区迁移而来的,就是著名的“客家。人的前身。中国历史上,从晋末到隋末的大分裂时期里,北方裁几乎一直战乱不断,于是大批北方的汉人被迫携家带口向南迁移。由于是迁徙而来,故称为“客”, 这便是今日客家人名称的由来。
    长汀是国家历史文化名城、客家首府,著名的八闽汀州故地和福建古代文明发祥地之一。长汀从盛唐到清末均是州、路、府的治所,亦是客家人的主要聚居地,有“客家大本营'' 和“客家首府”之称,每年都有大批港、澳、台及东南亚各国的客家人来这里寻根。

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1楼 网友 在 2015-10-23 时说:

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