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旅游游记
永定洪坑村之旅
发表时间:2011-05-17  浏览数:1016  我要评论(10)

    我去过好些古村镇、算是见过一点世面的人了,然而永定的洪坑土楼还是给了我一番惊喜。比起西塘,她更有古朴村落的韵味;比起婺源,她更有多种多样的风姿。村子颇大,两个多小时的浮光掠影让我意犹未尽。要是时间再多一些,行程再从容一些,就更能充分感受土楼古村的魅力了。


洪坑村 

   一般人都以为土楼是圆形的(我也是一般人),其实圆形土楼只是特别的少数,大部分还是方形的,此外还有半圆半方等等形状。我非专业研究者,就不罗嗦了,咱就是去看个新鲜好奇的。

    据导游介绍以及我对村中老人的采访,洪坑村村民原本主要是以茶叶和烟叶为生,而现在大概是旅游收入为主了吧,当然,年轻人大都出去闯荡世界了,村里大都是中老年人。一进村就看见一座天后宫,建于清嘉庆年间,据导游说是因为烟叶销售都是通过漳州出海,所以他们也祭拜妈祖,也就是天后啦。而且,洪坑村都是林姓,妈祖也姓林。


振成楼

    村里最大的看头就是土楼王子振成楼,为啥叫王子不叫公主呢,因为这座圆形大土楼旁边还带有两座厢房,远远看去像是明代的乌纱帽,所以说男性,称王子。土楼前那块石头上骄傲地表明这座土楼已经是世遗啦。旁边的厢房,一座是家塾,一座是烟叶作坊。如今一座是餐馆一座是茶馆,与时俱进商业化了。土楼里边更是商业化,一楼全是店面,卖起了字画、土楼模型、烟茶土产等等。后边还比较清静。据介绍,二楼是粮仓,三楼以上才是民居。如今游客不许上楼,以免打扰客家人的正常生活。

    不是所有土楼都游人如织的。附近一座福兴楼就不属于游览景点,气势远不比振成楼,也没有游客。我最喜欢这样的地方啦,贸贸然跑进去,一只黑狗趴在门口懒洋洋地睡觉,院子里N多肥土鸡满地乱走,原汁原味的农家乐。

    村中间是一棵超级大榕树,美其名曰榕荫消夏,很多人在休憩,生财有道的村民们一溜儿摆开摊子,卖土产、榨果汁,热闹非凡。我赶时间,不敢休息,继续往前。后面的土楼依然是形态各异,福裕楼是府邸式的,因为楼主做过官;奎聚楼出过很多人才,气势非凡,如升楼是小圆楼,在河边,俺没空进去看,隔河瞻仰了一番。


福裕楼

    走到日新学堂我就回头了。这是以前林氏蒙学堂,现在外面扩建成了洪川小学,很多小朋友在操场上嬉闹。旧学堂已经关闭,我围着围墙团团转,从缝隙间窥视里面的砖木。院中古柏森森,我想起杜甫的《蜀相》:“映阶碧草自春色,隔叶黄鹤空好音。”虽然桥很简朴,但我喜欢这样的村落,有一种低调避世的味道。

   永定除了土楼外就是煤矿最出名了。那天去看土楼的路上堵车堵了一个半小时,看到许多运煤的大卡车和路边的一些小煤矿。据说宝马公司曾经特派员工来此访查,这个小县城为啥宝马的销量那么高。

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