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在撒哈拉,遇到三毛
发表时间:2013-07-17  浏览数:3858  我要评论(7)

    结婚以前大胡子问过我一句很奇怪的话:“你妥一个赚多少钱的丈夫?”
    我说:“看得不顺艰的话,千万富翁也不嫁;看得中意,亿万富翁也以“说来说去,你总想找有钱的。” “也有例外的时候。”我叹了口气。
    如杲是我呢?”他很自然地问。
    那只要吃得饱的也算?”他想了一下,又问:“你吃得多吗?”
    我十分小心地回咎:“不多,不多,以后还可以少吃点。”就这几句对话,我就成了大胡子荷西的太太。
    读这段话的时候,我正在撒哈拉的旅馆里喝咖啡,门缝里吹进来的黄沙堆起了一座小山,整整齐齐的,像是经过刻意的修饰。旅行日志已经用了大半本,可我还找到她的一语风尘,也没在沙漠的荒野奔走出一路的鲜花。

    非洲是咖啡的故乡。在旅馆闷热的小屋里,纯粹的咖啡豆加浓烈的朗姆酒,调出的却是眼泪的苦涩滋味。饮一口,似烈焰,几欲灼穿肺腑。坐在宽大的窗台上,看红日一寸一寸隐没在尼罗河水中。我伸开双曹,幻想自己是只水鸟,在水霁氤氲的尼罗河辽阔上空,孤零零振着翅膀飞翔。
    细细想来,哉不知造自已为什幺会孤身来非洲。没有一个真正说得通的答案。也许,只是为了那句话:每想念你一次,天空飘落一粒沙,于是就有了撤哈拉。
    我推门出去 微风送来的悃沙懒洋洋地落在我的脸上,仿佛情人的抚摸。落日的光晕把天地染红的速度让人始料未及。视线所及之处全是蔓延的金黄色,无效层层荡开的i纹犹如波根一般。赤足在细如棉的沙脊上行走,深一脚浅一脚。软软的,滑滑的细沙在趾缝间溢出,像一个个调皮的幼虫。
    我的眼神变得有些迷离,沉醉其中····撒哈拉的落日,是一种造世独立的美,一种让人绝望的美。    三毛说:漫漫的黄沙,无边而庞大的天空下,只有我们两个渺小的身影在周折,四周寂寥得很,沙漠,在这个时候真是美丽极了。
    我设办法告诉三毛,寂寂的黄沙早已掩盖了她的足迹 这可能和烈日无关,只是那些黄沙不让我与她相会。
    哉说过,总有一天我要循着她的足迹去,如果设有她那撤哈拉的故事,那哭的骆驼 我相象不出自己会对一望无际的黄沙有多少的兴致。
    我很羡慕这个眉目飞扬的女子,一件蓝棉布裙、往凉帽上括一把香菜就可以去结婚,如此洒脱不羁,如闩大漠上无根的云一般可以肆意流浪。
    撤哈拉成全了三毛半生的乡愁,三毛成全了万千大众年轻的梦。每个人都有这样的年纪 如这里的沙丘般飘忽不定,茫茫世界处处是未知的旅程,每走一步,后面的脚印就被不疾不徐的风遮盖住,遗失了回家的路。于是我们甘心做井底之蛙,只在自己固定的小圈子中仰头观看那一片小小的天空。
    隐藏在平静生话中的心,渴望的是另一种东西,一种更自由,更洒脱甚至更疯狂的生活。撒哈拉是一个绝好的圆梦之地,即使你将它踩在脚下,却依旧感觉它是那么遥远,那么神秘。撒哈拉是个真正无关风月的地方,一切城市中的浮华躁动在它时而狂野时而柔情的风沙面前都无奈地化成一个最简    单的信念:活下去。
    从这个意义上来说,撤哈拉也许是最接近生命的地方。每一个能洇喉的泉眼,每一处有湿惠的角落,每一条蠕动的生灵,都能激发你全身的热情。在尘世中一切唾手可得的东西,在这里却弥足珍贵。这就是撒哈拉的生活哲理,它先是把你在明白现实世界中的一切撕碎,然后不动声色地教你学会人生:你可以满怀激情地想象,但是必须脚踏实地地生活。
    这里,每一小块土地,每个阴影,每块随风翻菝的石头,每个远处山坡的剪影,都是有故事的,背后都是战争、贫穷和流放。这里远离宗教的气息,远离每晚祷告的声音,远离朝九晚五的忙碌。生命的意义,在这里裁是斗争和死亡。这是艰辛的,也是令人尊敬的。
    沙漠的社会生活方式及其落后程度,带给三毛很大的震撼,原始的生活也磨去了三毛在都市里的那些娇柔。
    从撒哈拉回来后,三毛时常感到孤单,脱离现代文明太久,使她与之格格不入。每天烦恼忙碌的都是生活上的杂务,荷西每天下班回家来与她的对话,不外乎:“早上水停了,到隔壁提水“、“买了便宜的西瓜,物价又涨了!"物质条件太差,欠缺太多,也让两人的生活情趁日趋枯竭。
    三毛开始把自己关在屋子里,心中狂野的萌动却似热火般燃烧,找不到别人宣泄。苘西上班,三毛把门一挡,眼泪流下来了。
    三毛说:“苘西,你不许去,你一定不许去,你去,我栽拿刀杀你!'
   苘西还是走了。
    三毛痛苦地坐在地上,对着设有糊水泥的墙发呆。她细细地回想沙漠生活里的枝枝叶叶,便提起已经停了十年的笔,写下沙漠生活中的第一个故事:
    <中国饭店>。
    撒哈拉,在三毛的旅途中是驿站亦是归宿,她钟情于那里的一切,她爱沙漠尽头落葭的绚烂,她爱风拂过山脊留下的长长的呜咽,她爱从门缝里爬进来的一只渐蜴,她爱在布满灰尘的桌上画下只有她自已才懂的符号。她纵情地生活在自己的世界里,认真地做着自己该做的事,正如她所说:“我个人,在生命的可能里,决不因为苦难而忘却了自己的责任。" 最终她将生活和文字中最美丽的色彩留在了撒哈拉午夜的黄沙当中。
    我能够体会到三毛的那种孤寂,每个人经历了撒哈拉之后,多少都会变得和以往不同,但是大沙漠却永远超脱着人类的喜怒哀乐自顾自真实地存在着。三毛用一条丝袜了断自己一生的流;良时,撒哈拉也不曾动容半分。在它广袤的怀抱里 人在渺小得有如沙砾
   我脑海里的三毛,是用一根细线随意扎起的长发和慵懒的表情,她会用一个柔弱无骨的姿态倚在门框上,就这样过一整天。在这个连水里都能捞出沙土的:世界里,她的眼眸却是无上的纯净,就像是摘了墨的白纸,墨色在宣纸上致散开了,于是这个与诗意无关的地方慢慢成了江南水乡。
    这个与美藐无关的女子,却在万千红紫中独自热烈地绽放。她剑气看人生,字里行旬流露出一种冷峻和漠然,叫人真名心酸。是那样大落落不吝给予的人,哭与笑也都只源于一颗心。
    这个将一世风华演绎到极致的精灵,似乎不是为了存在而存在,她不属于这个世界 昔至不属于这个种族 她的引来口是为了掬起上世中的一捧水 技一个与世隔绝的地方慢慢沉淀。

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