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吴哥半日游
发表时间:2013-08-23  浏览数:16005  我要评论(4)

    很早就听说,吴哥不是一个寺,而是一段历史,一个朝代,一座都城,一群建筑,一门艺术,一方崇拜。    还有人说,吴哥是人与神共同创造的奇迹。
    甚至有人忧心忡忡吴哥再次被大自然收回,回归丛林。
    我真幸运,赶在老天爷将之收归已有之前,眼它有过零距离的接触;但我又不能不孢憾:与它谋面,只有不到半天的时卜ED, 就像与心爱的人、知心的朋友刚刚握下手,打个照面,又得匆匆话别。
    从金边到暹粒,约300公里。我们一行本想搭原来的大飞机去的,但是,逼粒的机场硬件不够,只得分乘两架。飞行了不到一个小时,在当地时间十时许,我们就抵达暹拉机场。逭拉文物古迹繁多,旅游资源丰厚,有古寺庙近300座,著名的吴哥古迹就位于退粒市以北六公里处。

    甫下飞机,我们便驱车直奔巴戎寺。沿途但见绿树婆娑,水流潺潺,大水牛懒散地在路边的草地进食,小孩躺在绑在树上的藤床悠闲地“杀时间”, 还有一些赤条条的小孩,在泛黄的河沟里游泳。这是佛国潜移默化的修炼?还是环境造就人呢?也i午兼而有之吧。
    吴哥城又名大吴哥,系公元9世纪吴哥王朝的都城。它多次毁于战火,又几经重建。现今遗址是12世纪末、13 纪初由杰耶跋麽七世所建。吴哥城呈正方形。全城共有五座城门,四座通向城中心的巴戎寺,一座通向皇宫的“唑利门”。巴戎寺是吴哥城的代表·性避筑,位于中心位置,由50多座石塔组成,中间一座高出地面45米,每座塔尖都雕有一座四面佛像。主雕像面含微笑,目视远方,脸形与高棉皇帝杰耶跋摩七世容貌相似。
    由于咄匈太过匆忙,我甚至不记得是否参观过巴戏寺,只是在整理照片时,发现有“吴哥微笑”之称的四面佛像,才证实曾与它有关惊鸿一瞥的谋面。人间仙境小吴哥记得比较清晰的还是参观吴哥窟的精华——小吴哥。大约10:45时,我们从东门进,最后从北门出。

    来到吴哥窟主体建筑前,但见寺庙由低往高修建,残垣断壁错落参差,透过杂树丛生的间隙,可以看到由砂岩石建造的须弥座,而在最高处是五座宝谐的须弥山,好像是五朵梅花在佛祖注视下,绽放在这人间仙境里。周道是郁郁葱葱的热带雨林,把这神秘的吴哥古寺掩映其中,更添一种神秘感。
    要走到里面去一探究竟,先要经过一条长堤,旁边便是呈长方形、如口字的护城河。在它的右侧,有一座藏经阁。两者之间,还有一片空旷的地方和一个荷池,地里盛开着娇艳的荷花。尽管时间紧迫,但我还是拿出相机,拍下正午的池荷,以及远处的五塔须弥山。日前,我从随行资料看到,吴哥窟第三层台基中央矗立一座65米高B9尖塔:, 五座石塔排列和谐,结构紧凑,正看为三塔,柬埔寨国旗主图案即源于此,侧看为五塔,庄严美丽,气势雄伟。而当时拍照,应该是侧面取景。
    我们还是一路紧走慢跑,走进吴哥窟的山门,只见它和左右两塔门有二重檐双排石柱画廊连通。画廊外侧石柱顶部的天花板,装饰着莲花和玫瑰花图案,精美无比。各塔门都有纵通道、横通道,交叉成十字形,纵通道以出人寺院,横通道以游览画廊,并形成吴哥窟建筑艺术一个突出特色——回廊。据称,吴哥窟的回廊由三个元素组成,内侧的墙壁兼朔壁,外向的成排立柱和双重屋檐的廊顶,除了明显的实用功能外,益增美感。
    正是这些台基、回廊、蹬道、宝塔、祭坛,构成了吴哥窟错综复杂的建筑群。而这些建筑物,大多由砂石砌成,石块之间并元灰浆或其他黏合剂,仅仅依艴石块表面形状的规整以及本身的重量彼此结合在一起。这座有众多热带雨林蔟拥的寺院,竟然没有就地取材,采用木质构造,让入不解。也许,高棉先人认为,石头比木材更加坚固耐用。而经过时间洗礼,似乎他们对了。
    由此也可以想象,1000多年前吴哥设计者布局之匠心,比例之匀称,取材之独到,施工之巧妙,并且总体设计要而不繁,大处庄重,细部精致,恰到好处,让人感叹不已。浮雕之美难穷尽.

    在吴哥窟一楼回廊的内墙上,我看到了大量描述印度神话的浮雕,古代工匠以恰到好处的曲线,勾勒出栩栩如生的表情和神态丰满的身姿,给人以一种呼之欲出的感觉。其中有一幅浮雕,描绘的是一位皇帝模样的人头藏皇冠,在宝座上赤足盘腿而坐,左手向左指,右手靠着宝座扶手,左右各有两名侍从,手执长扁,为皇帝扇风,身后还有宫女,手持点燃着的巨型蜡烛。导游告知,这便是创建吴哥窟的苏耶跋摩二世。这些浮雕、画像,既有描绘印度梵文史诗《罗摩衍那》、《摩诃娑罗多》中的典故,也有关于地狱、人间和天堂的轮回教谕,还有一些有 关吴哥王朝的历史变迁,以及歌颂他们的祖宗击败外敌的历史故事。
    对匆匆旅人来讲,这一个个场景,一幅幅浮雕,只是一种古老艺术的呈现,一种时光流转的见证。即使亲临其境,你也很难体·唁一个民族的兴衰史以及它全盛时    B荣耀、没落时的痛楚。而对所有的高棉人的子民来说,吴哥不仅仅是一个名胜古迹,还是他们共同的精神家园,灵魂依存的神圣殿堂,可以从中找到失落的往昔光    辉和民族复兴的动力。如今,柬埔寨国旗上的国徽,就是吴哥窟的图案。
    事实上,世界上每一处载人世界文化遗产名录的名胜古迹,都有光艳夺目的历史和篙古烁今的传奇。而作为与埃及的金字塔、中国的长城、印度尼西亚的婆    罗浮屠并称为东方四大奇迹的吴哥窟,更是传奇中0传奇。

    重见天日谜中谜
    导游告诉我们,吴哥窟有过辉煌的时光,也有被尘封的岁月,还有重见天日的故事,比起其他三大东方奇迹,更有传奇色彩。
    考古研究证实,吴哥古城始建于公元802年,完成于公元1201年,前后历时400年。而现在的吴哥窟,相较于吴哥逋王城(俗称大吴哥)而言,也叫小吴哥,它建于公元1113年- 1150年,为12世纪上半叶柬埔索君主苏耶跋摩二世的骨灰埋葬地。人们推断,它应是建在吴哥王朝最鼎盛时期,其建筑规模、精美程度,才能如止上空前绝后。
    不过,这座神奇的寺院,连同周围大大小小600多座建筑物,在IS世纪迁都金边后,突然人去城空,好像从人间蒸发得无影无踪。在此后的几个世纪里,吴哥古城变成了杂树、野草丛生的莽原。直到19世纪60年代初,才由法国人亨利·穆奥(Hemi Mouhot)在柬埔索搜集动植物标本而无高中发现,才重见天日。有一种说法更加难以置信,在这之前,当地人对此还一无所知。
    据说,亨利显引以自傲的珍稀蝴蝶标本在运回欧洲途中遇上风暴,沆人大海,渺无踪迹。而他记录发现吴哥遗址的笔记曝光,却引起全世界考古界的极大轰动,人们开始关注这个沉睡长达400百年的古城,以及它难以比拟的艺术价值、考古价值,消失的吴哥文明再度重现地面。时至今日,它那价值连城的旅游资源,更是难以估量。
    不过,直到今天,人们还是弄不清一个曾经繁荣强盛长达600年的王朝,其独特的文化竟然在刹那阊中断,消失在历史的长河中了。如果说是强敌入侵、占领,为什么没有维持其统治,甚至加以同化、改造?看起来,这还是一个千古之谜,留待后人细细考证,并给予有说服力的答案。
    人事有代谢,往来成古今。此中兴亡事,又有谁可以说得清呢?还是把这谜团抛开,回到吴哥游上来吧。
    从吴哥窟主殿迷宫般的回廊、雕像、殿堂里兜兜转转地出来,我们步上用石头铺就的路面。时维2002年深秋,外面阳光普照,在殿堂里石壁祛温的凉爽感觉,巳不复存在,加上步履匆匆,热汗也纷纷冒了出来,浸透了我那件刚穿上、印有吴哥窟图案的T恤。那路旁石头凌乱地唯砌着,似乎每块石头都粘连着历史苔痕;千年古树与新裁小树并存,有如苍老与新生熔于一炉;身后若隐若现的建筑群,以及运处五卢梅花式排列的五座宝塔,更构成了一幅奇异的图景,让人陡然兴起不知前世今生的感慨。    这时,催促返程的召唤已经响起,我们的半天吴哥游也到了尽头了。短痘的一两个小时的近距离接触,不要说不能揭开吴哥古城的神秘面纱,就是小吴哥也难以尽人眼底。但是,我的心灵还是被吴哥窟这神秘而奇特的景观所震撼。
    此刻,我更深深地体悟到造物主的神奇,以及人之伟大与渺小,随缘与借缘。

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4楼 网友 在 2017-02-10 时说:
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