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肖邦故居—一首未完成的诗
发表时间:2013-08-22  浏览数:15660  我要评论(5)

     1996年9月的波兰之行,与几乎同时出游的俄罗斯、奥地利、瑞士、荷兰四国之旅相比,确实淡漠了许多。一路参观的地方,除了南部古城克拉科夫的被联合国教科文组织定为世界文化遗产的盐矿外,就属波兰人的骄傲——肖邦故居给我留下的印象最为深刻了。

    确实,波兰没有俄罗斯那么博大壮阔、多姿多彩,没有圣彼得堡、莫斯科那么多的雕像、教堂、名人故居;没有瑞士那么优美的湖光山色,没有伯尔尼、日内瓦的政治都城和苏黎世国际金融市场的反差;没有荷兰以海堤、风车和宽容的社会风气那样闻名于世;甚至就音乐家而言,也没有奥地利的维也纳那样音乐天才辈出,群星璀璨。
    尽营如止匕 套用诗人痖弦《秋歌》中的“秋天,秋天什么也没留下;只留下一个暖暖,只留下一个暖暖,一田便都留下了”的诗意,我可以大胆地如是说:波兰,波兰什么也没有留下,只留下一个肖邦,只留下一个肖邦,一扔便都留下了。
    记忆,是一种神奇的东西。当你把它尘封起来,什么也没有浮现出来。而当你一旦打开它,许多前尘往事都会被激发出来,鲜活如初。此际,当我想为波兰之行重温旧梦,还真得珲一首未竟诗作《欧行咏叹调——雨中访肖邦澌赐。当时,觉得它诗味如同白开水,也就弃之不顾。也因为这炮没有炸响,欧行五圉也就没有留存诗篇。
    好在,那时还没有使用电脑,抄在笔记本里,今天完全可以对照来写,点燃那些若隐若现的记忆。

    那天,气温宜人,时雨时晴,远山近郊有时披上一层迷幻的面纱,有时像洗过浮尘那般明净。我们一大早就驱车前往肖邦故乡——热拉佐瓦·沃拉镇。我依稀记得,导游告诉我们,它也叫钢铁镇,不知是当地以钢铁著名,还是地名翻就该叫做钢铁镇。那里距首都华沙约50公里,大约一个小时69车程,一座掩映在绿树鲜花之中的白色小楼,就映人眼帘。
    导游告诉我们,这便是肖邦的出生地,不过,眼前的肖邦故居纪念馆是第二次世界大战之后重建的。据说,这座纪念馆,室内仍然保留当年风貌,存放着肖邦少年时的作品和他曾经使用过的物品,其中一台“长颈鹿”竖式钢琴,尤其引人注目。此外,还有一些经历岁月淘洗的绘画和手稿,也有肖邦与家族成员的照片以及他与乔治·桑恋情的故事介绍。

    从肖邦的作品中,我们确确实实地感受到肖邦对波兰的挚爱。公元1810年出生的肖邦,6岁开始学琴,8岁首演当即轰动华沙,被称之为“波兰的莫扎特”。16岁到19岁,他在华沙音乐学院深造。19世纪30年代初定居巴黎,此后直到公元1849年病逝巴黎,再也没有返回故乡和波兰。但是,作为一位“钢琴诗人”,他的作品始终流淌着波兰的血液。
    据通晓音乐的同行介绍,肖邦的音乐带有鲜明的波兰民族风格,诠释着波兰民族的灵魂。他一生中写下的第一首作品是公元t817年的《波兰舞曲》, 而其绝唱则是公元1849年的富有波兰民间色彩的《玛祖卡舞曲》, 可谓始于波兰,终于波兰。就连他的心脏也安葬在自己的祖国,魂归故土。
    1849年,肖邦在巴黎去世后,后人根据他的遗愿,把他的心脏带回波兰,安葬在华沙圣十字教堂的墙壁中。并在教堂的一根廊柱下,写着“这里安放着肖邦的心脏”。说实话,我是音乐的门外汉,在那篇未竟的诗稿里,我曾这样写着=
    音乐,于我如同聋子的耳朵,纯属一种可有可无的摆设。当风儿拂动屋外的木麻黄,演武场 (指厦门大学的操场,郑成功当年的演武场)下海浪不规则的波动,‘中国火' 声嘶力遇的捏蔽,都给我长茧的心灵以某种接颈。
    是的,诗是那样直白,缺乏意象,但其时站在肖邦纪念馆里,我的心灵确实感受到肖邦其人其钢琴曲的震憾。
    作为“伯乐”钢琴家李斯特相中的传人,肖邦在同代人的眼里,面色苍白,身体柔弱,多愁善感,略带诗人的忧郁。当他踏进巴黎贵族沙龙之际,正是文学艺术星空璀璨之时。他当时过从甚密的李斯特、海涅、乔治·柔和密茨凯维支等,都是文学艺术界一时之选。肖邦和乔治·桑相互爱恋,引发诸多风雨,而在肖邦弥留之际,乔治·桑并未在他的身边。在肖邦故居纪念馆里,也简略地记述着这段倩史。

    在与乔治·桑一起生活的九年卜j可,肖邦在柔夫人诺罕庄园里,与常来此做客的作家、诗人、艺术家相互切磋,并从中吸收养分,其创作上更上一个新台阶。他的作品囊括了波罗乃兹、谐谑曲、圆舞曲、夜曲、奏鸣曲、玛祖卡和协奏曲等不同类别的钢琴曲,且其旋律所呈现的情感幅度更为宽广。
    有人把肖邦的钢琴曲总结为四大特点:抒情的旋律美、动人的意境美、创新的形式美和炽热的情操美。而他的情人乔治·桑在肖邦死后这样评价肖邦:“他的天才,同任间被他承袭的大师一样广阔、全面和精深。从性格来讲,比巴赫更糈致,比贝多芬更有力,比韦伯更有戏剧性。他集这三者于一身,然而他还是他。在挖掘情趣时比他们更微妙,在表现宏伟壮丽时更朴实无华,在倾诉悲痛时更能催人泪下。”也许 这更能反映这位“钢琴诗人”的艺术特点和心路历程。圮佑那天从肖邦纪念馆二楼走下来,淅淅沥沥的秋雨已经止息,天空澄清,现出彩虹。我的诗草正这样记录的:
    意外的惊喜出现在曲径尽头,露出来,你那高大的雕塑,和那令人难以觉察的微笑,面对脚下的土地流逝的凤旱……
    肖邦,虽然人去楼空飞鸟无依,重要的是你的乐谱旋律永在,你的白玉般的塑像有花相伴,比乔治·桑的爱抚更天长地久。都说,音乐家是没有国界的。然而,音乐家是有祖国的。如今,肖邦已成为波兰的一张名片。至今他那梦幻般的钢琴曲以及从琴键婆流泻出来的爱恨情仇、美丽与忧伤,依然抚愍着人们的心灵。而他那遍布波兰大街小巷、教堂楼馆的雕像、遗迹,仍然等待四方游客前来礼拜。

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