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旅游游记
和顺:古镇悠悠,岁月静好
发表时间:2013-06-26  浏览数:8657  我要评论(4)

    第一次听说和顺这个地方是通过电视剧《我的团长我的团》。在《我的团长我的团》剧中,龙文章把炮灰团从缅甸带回国后就一直住在禅达的收容站,迷龙、孟烦了、小醉的家都在禅达。
禅达是一个虚构的名字,它的真实地名叫和顺。作为当年滇缅抗战的战场,剧中许多重要场景都是在和顺古镇拍摄完成的。

    今年年初,随着《北京爱情故事》的热播,这个遥远的边境古镇再次走进了我的视线。剧中男主角程锋为了女主角沈冰不远千里来到对方的家乡。随着他的贸然闯入,和顺古朴沉静的老房子,清澈的溪流,没有路灯的安静的夜晚,稻田中悠闲自在的白鹭,这些唯美得有些不真实的场景,在我心头生根发芽。
我知道,我早晚会与她有一场邂逅。

    大理到腾冲大约330公里。我们上午10点从客栈出发,经大保高速至潞江出口,接着转走国道320滇湎公路,至蚂蝗菁岔省道317线,开始翻越高黎贡山。
    天公不作美,从大理到保山,一路阳光明媚,进入高黎贡山就开始下雨。高黎贡山车祸不断,一路走走停停,到了和顺已经是下午6点多。

    到了古镇门口,霎时被它的风采给吸引了,在这极边之地方,居然藏匿着一个如此辉煌的村落,这简直就是一个奇迹。
    和顺四周是大大小小的火山锥,一条三合河绕村而过,两座石拱桥连接村内外大路。当地人起了个好听的名字——双虹桥。村中所有的道路,甚至连村外的田埂都是用石条铺成的,晴不扬尘,雨无泥泞,不烂不滑。
村口的这两座拱桥,当年却不是任何人都可以随便通过的。据说,只有光宗耀祖的乡人衣锦还乡才可以堂堂正正地走这两座桥回家,而落魄之人只能在夜晚偷偷从后山潜回。今天,有幸过这水和这桥,好像我就是那个遥远的日子里的得意之人,不禁有些飘飘然。

    此时落日将尽,暮色苍茫,远处云树参差,暮霭低迷,一大片白鹭扑哧哧返回远山,月亮开始爬上山头。在远处的田野里,可以看到一抹夕阳金色的余晖从原野掠过,村舍上空有几缕炊烟袅袅升起。随着落日,晚间的风刮起来,湿润润的,和顺的夜晚即将来临。
    近处小河边绿柳含烟,一位农人头戴斗笠,身披蓑衣,一动不动垂钓于柳下。小河另一头,一张竹筏悠悠地行在处处涟漪的湿地水面上。和顺古镇于处变不惊中有一丝灵动的神韵,似一幅绝妙的画。

    跨越双虹桥,一座中西合璧式的建筑呈现在眼前,这便是有着“在中国乡村文化界堪称第一”美誉的和顺图书馆。读了馆门前的石碑,才知道此馆建于1927年,是由旅缅的华侨集资修建的。在那个纷乱不堪的年代,和顺的先人智士就知道引导乡人兴学读书,这是何等的睿智和远见。
    图书馆已经关门,门侧的对联却清晰可辨:“书自云边通契阔,报来海外起群黎。”门缝中透出微弱的光,拉长了一个个缓行而过的影子,仿佛被重新洗涤的灵魂。
    夜已深,再逛下去只能是走马观花,还是明日再感受她的魅力吧。
    只是不知道,在座这隐秘的、与世无争也无事可扰的古镇,今夜能不能入眠。

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