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景点攻略
鞍山玉佛苑游记
发表时间:2012-04-03  浏览数:1264  我要评论(6)

    一大早,从住所出发,又过浑河桥,车子驶上了沈大高速,我们今天要去鞍山。

    今天的天气特别晴朗,似乎那刚刚过去的沙尘暴已经成为了人们遥远的记忆,湛蓝高远也明净清丽的天空下,这块平实的黑土地显得异常的开阔。暮春时节的太阳把那清丽的金色光线泼洒向这坦坦荡荡的黑土地,透过车窗南望,在那一望无际的大地尽头,天地相接处,被这阳光涂抹的是那样的圆滑,充溢着令人费解的神秘与神慧。

    在此之前,我只知道鞍山是祖国的钢都,而在昨晚约定要去鞍山时,我才知道鞍山还是一处山水风光旖旎、人文历史璀璨的地方。那全国四大理疗中心之一的汤岗子温泉、素有北国黄山之称的千山以及那充溢着神奇的世界第一大玉佛就都在鞍山。由于我们这次到鞍山的第一站是先到鞍山的玉佛苑,一路上,热心的沈阳朋友便在滔滔不绝地向我们讲述着这玉佛的奇缘。


鞍山玉佛苑

    如今那坐落在鞍山玉佛苑的玉佛阁里的玉佛是于1960发现于辽宁岫岩的玉石王经人工雕琢而成的,它原来是一块百余立方米、重达260吨的天然玉石。它呈七色,色彩斑斓,被人称为玉石王。在它被发现的32年后,鞍山人动用了大型牵引车、军用坦克等各种运输车辆将其运抵鞍山东山风景区。如今的这块玉石王已被人工雕琢成了正面是释迦牟尼、背面是观音菩萨的举世瞩目的鞍山玉佛。听着朋友的讲解,我当时就在想,这样一项浩大而精细的工程本身就是一项壮举,而在这人工雕琢之中所出现的诸多奇迹,更显出了佛法的博大和精深,似乎就在这冥冥之中,佛无处不在。

    鞍山的玉佛苑由玉佛阁、玉带桥、山门、荷花池和花果岛组成。是一处三面环山,一面傍水、四周绿树掩映的佛地。车子穿过鞍山市区,远远地就可以望见绿荫掩映之中,红墙白栏隐现,那集天安门与万博城之精华建造而成的三洞式山门,由栩栩如生的汉白玉石狮拱卫着,显示出了这佛地的庄严与肃穆。

    玉佛苑的主题建筑就是那玉佛阁了,从玉佛苑的山门进入,前面高高的台基上,庄严耸立着的就是那玉佛阁,白柱红瓦、楼檐飞叠。据说,这样一坐玉佛阁是目前全国最大的佛殿,当年建造它时,是先雕琢玉佛而后建佛殿的。


鞍山玉佛苑

    今天呈现在游人面前的玉佛苑并非古迹,但来这里游览,你会处处感受到那佛法神秘的幽幽古韵。游人不远万里而来,是为这尊玉佛在雕琢过程中所出现的种种奇迹而来,我觉着,来这里,不是来拜佛,当你在这里静静地聆听了这里曾经发生过了的一切后,你就可以感觉到,来这里,是来经受一次佛的昭示。这玉文化和佛文化的渊源交融,这交融中出现的种种奇迹与现实的碰撞,实际上是在碰撞着人们自己的心灵。佛之广、之博、之精、之深,不得不使人为之惊、为之叹、为之敬、为之信。

    进入玉佛苑,走过那长长的通道,拾阶而上玉佛阁的台基,由赵仆初当年题写的“玉佛阁”金色匾额高悬于大殿上方,7余米高的18根汉白玉蟠龙柱顶天立地,气势异常的雄浑。进得大殿,呈现在游人面前的就是那块玉石王,正面雕刻的就是那神态安详的佛祖释迦牟尼象。这是一整块天然的集深绿、浅绿、绿、黄、白、黑、蓝为一体的七彩花玉,由于现代技术还不能探明玉石内部各部分的颜色,而全靠人工的悉心雕刻,能把这样一块整玉雕刻成形态一体的一尊玉佛,这本身就蕴涵着浑然天成的神韵。来这里,你最好悉心聆听导游的讲解,以此去真正感受那无处不在的神韵和佛理。悉心地聆听悉心地观赏,尤其是佛的脸部,从现在雕好的佛象可以看出,哪怕只稍微偏差一点,佛祖的脸就会雕在花色杂乱的玉面上而成为花脸佛。若此,这便是对佛祖的大不敬了。但这仿佛是存在着佛韵的天成,当年雕琢时,佛祖的脸部正好雕在一块洁净无暇的深绿色玉面上,佛面灵光四射。再看佛像的头部,其上的金冠适逢一块黄色的玉石,富丽辉煌。而那佛身从左到右倾斜着的两道印痕又恰似佛祖所披的袈裟。直让人感觉,这块天然的玉石就是为佛祖所备,玉石各部位的颜色实际上早已蕴涵了佛经中所述佛陀的面色、形态、衣着和神韵。说这种人工的雕琢是巧合,不如说是天意。


渡海观音

    在这块玉石王的背面,雕琢的是渡海观音,这里,这观音像雕琢过程中出现的种种奇迹更让今人为之叹服。据说,当年的农历二月初二,那是中国民间传统中“龙抬头”的日子,就在当天上午的9点钟当雕刻部位进行到观音像的右侧时,浅绿的玉面上竟然出现了一块班驳的黑玉,正当雕琢师为之遗憾之时,却发现磨平的黑玉中隐现出一条蟠龙横卧于观音像的右侧。龙抬头的日子竟然有了这样巧合的龙的出现,着实令人惊叹不已。又在下午3点钟的时候一只与龙色彩相同的回头凤跃然出现于龙的下方,凤冠在南,回头仰望着观音,那舒展着的凤尾飘然于观音的裙摆之上。这一龙一凤,一上一下,完全出于雕琢师的意料之外,而就在这样一个特殊时日,出现这“龙凤呈祥”的现象,为这鞍山的玉佛增添了不尽的神韵。
徜徉于这大殿之内,注目这佛之雕像,静静地聆听着导游那娓娓动情的讲述,这样巧合的事情真是太多了。实际上,在玉佛的雕琢中原先是没有固定的图案的,玉佛的雕琢完全是按照玉石剥离的自然形状,为尽量减少玉石的重量损失,设计时按照玉石各部位的颜色和自然形成,随弯就势,高者雕成山脉,低者雕成河瀑,然而没有料及的是,当山水之景完成之后,人们竟然发现这座雕刻的山水景观简直就是普陀山水的缩影。谁会想到,那观音的道场普陀山竟然如此神奇地来到了这鞍山的玉佛苑,并呈现在这玉石王背面的观音像上。望着观音像背后那重峦叠嶂的山水景观,立于这观音像前,耳边似乎还能听到那顺石而下的流水声,它是那样的神慧、那样的空灵,仿佛在这整座大殿中有漫漫的神韵飘忽。置身此情此景,在佩叹与惊奇之余,也令人为之瞠目。

    如果说以上的这诸多的奇迹映现的都是与佛有关的有形之物的话,那麽,在观音像脚下的鳌鱼尾上部若隐若现的由黄色玉石面构成的那个隶书体“真”字,却似乎在向世人昭示这佛法的真谛。这个“真”字据说是由来自武汉的尚德法师发现的,并给玉佛苑还题写了“宏大悟真”的题词,皆在说佛法宏深广大。尚得法师借助自己的慧眼与题词,向世人道出了那佛教讲究悟性的真谛,而这些,竟那麽自然地就包含在这玉石王的佛像之中。

    按着导游的讲解和指点,游人们不时地发出惊叹之声,看着他们那为之惊为之叹的神色,我在惊叹之余,却有一种不可言装的感觉始终缠绕在心。环顾这玉佛阁内鎏金的造景,更有那晶莹剔透的宝莲灯与这玉佛是那样的相得益彰,那富丽堂皇的内壁装饰又是那样的惹人注目,是不是,这玉佛苑天生就是佛所在的地方呢?

    还在同事们徜徉在这大殿之中时,我却独自一人步出这大殿来到了玉佛苑的玉带桥上。脚下一泓清流无声地流淌,远眺千山重峦叠嶂,再回首那掩映于满目绿荫之中的玉佛苑,心里突然感觉有一种博大精深的超然之力奔撞在怀。据说,雕琢玉佛的那玉石王的生成经历了17亿年的时光,而佛教文化的承传至今却只有2500年的历史。17亿与2500相比,这却是一个巨大的比数。在那17亿年漫漫的时空里,与这仅有2500年佛教承传的巧合,这是不是说,佛理存于永恒。若如此,这一巧合却是大巧合。那麽,今天人们在此玉石上的所观所悟之巧合,却不必如此称奇道绝了。有道是我们世俗之人难悟佛之真谛,竟不知这看似巧合的浑然天成却早已是天意之所在呀。

    鞍山玉佛采玉之灵气,融佛之教理,揽漫漫亘古时空之神韵,加之今人巧夺天工通达佛理之玄奥的用心雕琢,正所谓,是佛自有天缘,一切尽在冥冥之中。

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